Sarah Betty’s Highlights: London Fashion Week Day One

That time of year is upon us again. The outfit planning, the partying and the unveiling of the new season’s must-have clothes. London Fashion Week is a whirlwind of excitement, mixed up with twinges of tiredness and look-at-me outfits. Here I outline just what each designer presented, incuding the clothes, the hair and key information that you need to know.

Paul Costelloe:

The look: Pretty and feminine with a rock ‘n’ roll twist. Dresses were short and tailored, nipped in at the waist with a flared skirt. On the other extreme, the maxi was still around, contrasted with a leather jacket.
Colours: Blues, silvers and soft pinks.
The hair: It was all about looking like you’d attended a debutante ball, and then gone to a gig afterwards. Big messy beehives with wisps of flyaway hair.
Inspired by: Says Paul Costelloe, “Madeleine Vionnet, 1920s and 1930s reinterpreted with a rock’n’roll attitude.”
Key notes: Next spring/summer is going to be in the art of contrast. Beautiful hair that got messed up and feminine dresses crossed with masculine jackets.

Maria Grachvogel:


The look: Draped goddess. Silk garments were made into feminine shapes, which both hung and fitted the body beautifully. Bright graphics prints stole the show, but you couldn’t fail to notice the beautiful greys which also made an appearance.

Colours: Eye-popping yellows, graceful greys and bold graphics prints
The hair: Glossy, straight and long with a middle or off-centre parting
Key notes: The only way to make an appearance at a beach or summer party next year is to go bright, bright, bright!

Jean Pierre Braganza:


The look: Dreamy ‘metal’ fan. The collection ranged from draped playsuits, through to tight printed dresses withintricate pattern embellishment.

Colours: Pastel blues and pinks, creams and a sprinkling of black.
The hair: Straight hair with kinks and a slightly messy
Inspired by: Says Jean Pierre Braganza: “Mystical bikes and legends of ravens. Heavy Metal whispered softly by faeries.”
Bora Aksu 

The look: Sophisticated ant on its way to fashion week. Hand knit crochet details on paneled dresses. There were also bodycon shapes strutting down the catwalk and delicious ruffles everywhere.
Colours: Blacks, greys interspersed with orangey reds. Tights were monochromatic fabulousness.
The hair: Little white bugs in hair. Tight topknots, with a messy finish. It’s going to be back again next year!
Inspired by:  Says Bora: “Ants and my mum’s photos from sixties.”
Key notes: It’s all about padding out the lower half and turning it into your key accessory. You must Think Bug.
Jena.Theo (Designer duo Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis­)

The look:  A modern Princess of Persia. Models wore draped layers of silk and jersey, in a modern-take on the sari shape. Gold-leaf was charmingly applied to bear legs, or torsos.   
Colours: Purples, pinks and gold leaf
The hair: Hair was either covered in white silk wraps, or back-combed to perfection
Key notes: This is a little of East meets West, so combine drapery with turbans and you’re spot on!


Felder Felder




The look: City princess with a flirty finish. Leather was deliciously customized and skirts flounced about, while other garments twinkled with crystal embellishment
Colours: Bright blues, reds, silver and a cheeky wink of fuchsia.
The hair: Long, free and sexy with middle parting.
Inspired by: Says Annette Felder and Daniela Felder “Colours, textures and free spirits.”
Key notes: You need to give it some attitude with frilly skirts, crystal-encrusted dresses and bright leather jackets.
Hannah Marshall


The look: New York socialite with business acumen. Clothes were sexy, but serious. Beautiful pleats of paneling that fanned open were on display on some garments. High-neck tops made an appearance and sheer clothing is definitely going to be in.
Colours: Muted classy blacks and soft greys
The hair: Swept back and free-falling down the back
Inspired by: Says Hannah: “Control, privacy and technology.”
Key notes: It’s all about displaying an inner-confidence. Give them something, but don’t give it all away.
Sass and Bide

The look: Elizabethan fashion mafia. Ruff collars were centre-stage in the collection, followed by beautiful prints and draped trousers.
Colours: Monochrome, golds, greys and a wink of orange-pink
The hair: Sweet little top-knots
Inspired by: Says Sarah-Jane Clarke (sass) and Heidi Middleton (bide): “Perfectly placed chaos.” 
Key notes: Draping your figure in candy cane stripes and silk items will make the height of sophistication next year!
PPQ

The look: Punctuated with bright geometric patterns, the collection also displayed eye-popping structured dresses and even gold satin trousers! Of course the fez hats also popped-out to say ‘hello!’
Colours:  Electric blues, mustards with a whipping of crimsons and blacks.
The hair: Poker straight with plenty of volume.
Inspired by: Says Amy Molyneaux:  “The girls who work in our studio, the view from our window and Percy, my business partner,” Amy comments.
Key notes: These bright colours can even take you through to autumn and would really stand out with noir tights.